River Song

Phnom Penh's new Hotel KVL brings spirit and sheen to the city's moribund riverside

Though it sounds glamorous, Phnom Penh's riverside district has had somewhat of a seedy reputation. One of the oldest parts of the city, it's where the river boats used to dock on their way up the Mekong from French-run Saigon, transporting freight and post between the two colonial cities, and well-heeled passengers on the way to Angkor.

However, following decades of conflict, the area's grand edifices fell apart, and much of the area became rundown. Cheap bars and hostels took over the once charming premises, drawing a much less salubrious crowd for budget drinks and spartan rooms.

A few years ago though, renovations started on the nearby Royal Palace, which is still home to the current Cambodian King Norodom Sihamoni. Recently completed, the majestic Moonlight Pavilion looks out towards the river, bringing a new glamor to the waterfront. Much like Hotel KVL, which is also breathing new life into an old area.

So, let's start with the basics. What does KVL stand for? Well, it's 'Kanika, Vattanac and Leakhena', the names of the three siblings behind the family project. With deep pockets, Vattanac is one of Cambodia's largest conglomerates, with banks, breweries, and property, including the nearby landmark Vattanac Capital building, which houses a Rosewood Hotel. No novices to hospitality, they see Hotel KVL as a chance to put everything they have learned into a new boutique concept, with this the launch hotel.

Certainly it makes a fantastic first impression, with a giant-sized door made from traditional wooden carvings swinging open to reveal a soaring atrium. Nine floors up, the sun ripples through a rooftop skylight covered in water, making you feel you've entered into an underwater sanctuary. In the center of the airy space, a dramatic spiral staircase connects the subterranean restaurant to the co-working space above. The precision of it is remarkable, and apparently to get it just right delayed the opening by two months. It was obviously time well spent. Offset from the reception, and with a discrete separate entrance onto the road, is the all-day cafe The Alchemist, serving locally grown coffee, and delicious cakes made onsite, which is also open to the public.

Finally leaving the lobby behind and heading upstairs to check out the rooms, we discovered minimalist and muted design, but with a quiet comfort and cool. With 76 to choose from, the 57 sqm KVL Suite that we stayed in was the pick of the bunch, with the engrossing river views embraced by a wall-long day bench. However, the Executive Suite, though smaller, had beds facing east, meaning you could watch the sun rise over the river. The Junior Suites we were not so keen on, though the tatami beds might appeal to some, while the entry level Atrium rooms made the most of their lack of natural light, with slit windows facing into the cavernous central opening.

Really though, we were keen to drop our bags and get to sky bar Up, already making a name for itself on Phnom Penh's evolving bar scene, a beautiful, cozy open space where the music is never too loud, and the view means you don't have to do much talking. The barman will most likely steer you to his signature (and recommended) Cherry Blossom Collins cocktail, with its Roku gin, hint of local Battambang orange and blueberry-flavored ice cubes, but I just couldn't turn down the Mekong Bazaar (partly on its name alone), using Phnom Penh-based Seekers gin, a taste of pomelo, and a hint of smoked chili. As we supped in silence, the sun slowly fell on the city.

There was just one place left to go that evening, the hidden secret that lay at the foot of that extravagant spiral staircase. El Tapas claims to be the city's first and only authentic tapas restaurant, but it's undeniably the best looking. As you walk down the spiral stair, splashes of vibrant color jump out at you, with a neon sign heralding your arrival. Under a ceiling of looped neon lights, resembling hoop earrings on a flamenco dancer, bright red tiled walls are the backdrop to a setting of mismatched chairs and colored tables. Of course, the best seat in the house was the counter lining the kitchen.

Sitting down, with a bottle of Spain's finest red wine in front of us, talented Chef Mario Yufera first prepped in front of us, then served up an incredible selection of tapas influenced by his upbringing in Alicante and experience at some of the world's best restaurants. Delicately plating up dishes like padron peppers and goat cheese foam, and octopus croquettes served with parsley mayo, this was tapas with a twist, though the acorn-fed 48-month aged Iberico pork dominating the counter did help root the menu in Spanish traditions. It was altogether superb, unexpected and filling.

One bottle later, the meal was the perfect satisfying ending to a wholly unexpected stay. A wonderful hotel and world-class restaurant on the Phnom Penh waterfront? The city's riverside is truly on the up - and I'm not just talking about those cocktails.

www.hotelkvl.com

An edited version of this hotel review also appeared in Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia.