Phnom Penh Bites
Discover the many tastes of the Kingdom of Wonder on this list of some of my favorite restaurants in Cambodia's hectic, but charming capital, and my home for many years
After decades in the doldrums, Phnom Penh's dining scene is now rightly considered one of the most vibrant in Southeast Asia, a combination of large expatriate numbers (due to the embassies and NGOs), low barriers to setting up new business, and an internationally-minded population creating cuisine that is affordable and diverse.
Khema La Poste
Despite being a protectorate of France for almost a century, the French influence on Cambodian cuisine was limited, especially compared to that seen across the border in Vietnam with their baguette on every corner, but a few restaurants still proudly fly the tricolour. There are three branches of Khema, but the one opposite the old Post Office, and itself housed in an old colonial home, is the most atmospheric. If you can, try and head here for weekend brunch, where you can join Phnom Penh's well-heeled for eggs royale (that's eggs benedict with salmon), alongside a deli counter full with meats and cheeses, and chocolat croissants and other baked delights. khema.thalias.com.kh
Malis
While it's fair to say the high-end Cambodian food scene is still evolving, there are certain exemplars that highlight the potential of this unexplored cuisine. Malis, with its high-end setting that exudes class - a garden villa set around a statue of legendary Khmer King Jayavarman VII - takes the traditions of royal cuisine and serves them with a modern flourish. We highly recommend their curated tasting menus, which serve up a balanced array of dishes such as spice-infused Takeo sausages, the sour moringa soup, and succulent river lobster fried in dried chilli. malis.thalias.com.kh
Elia
Established in Siem Reap, Elia quickly proved so popular with visiting expats from Phnom Penh that they opened up a branch in the capital. Regardless of which city you end up in, the reason for its popularity becomes quickly apparent: large portions of authentic Greek food perfect for sharing, served in a relaxed open-air setting at great prices. We like to start off the evening with a variety of dips and homemade pita, before moving on to a mixed meze plate full of dolmades, feta and zucchini fritters, then filling up the table with a seafood platter of calamari, grilled mackerel, butter shrimps and the best fries you'll ever find in Cambodia. eliathegreekkitchen.com
Central Market
We're often asked about where to try Cambodian street food, and the reality is: this isn’t Thailand, and in most cases you are best to steer clear. Unfortunately, even the locals are wary about chowing down on street side snacks, but one place you can safely try them is at the Central Market. An Art Deco masterpiece built in 1937, the building has had many incarnations over the years, but now you'll find its soaring central dome home to jewelery and watch shops, one of the wings given over to sports shoes, and on the west side a slew of small eateries. Start with an orange infused sugarcane juice, snack on fried sweet potato fries, and then sit down for an ice coffee and plate of lort cha - stir fried noodles with bean sprouts, broccoli, and chives.
Backyard Cafe
If you're a vegan visiting Cambodia, worry not as Phnom Penh has several restaurants serving plant-based cuisine. For our money, the best of the bunch is Backyard, which has two branches - once close to the Royal Palace, and the other in the hip Russian Market district. Regardless of which location you choose, Backyard is ideal for cold-pressed juices, which are made with the country's only hydraulic press, while others swear by their smoothie bowls, jackfruit burgers (an acquired taste), tasty tempeh veggie wraps, and quinoa salads. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100089396514240
Brown Coffee
While Starbucks is slowly, inevitably, colonising the Phnom Penh landscape, there's a local coffee chain that thankfully already beat them to it. For more than a decade now, Brown Coffee, with its distinctive coffee ring logo, has been serving up flat whites and cappuccinos to the city's rising middle class. Unlike its Seattle counterpart, each branch of Brown has a completely different interior and exterior design, no surprise when you realise one of the founders is a trained architect. It means, while the coffee may be familiar, each branch you visit is like a brand new cafe. browncoffee.com.kh
Farm to Table
Although it's home to 2 million people, Phnom Penh is still very a small city by Asian standards - rarely a weekend would go by without us bumping into someone we knew. This community vibe is best seen at local institution Farm to Table, a popular hangout with a sprawling family friendly garden, and home to wandering chickens and an old tractor for the kids to play on. The ingredients for the menu are, as the name suggests, mostly sourced from local farmers, with the artisanal aspect extended with weekend farmers markets as well as live music in the evenings. facebook.com/FarmToTablePP
Nesat Seafood House
The entrance to this low slung restaurant, carefully designed to resemble a traditional fisherman's house, is obscured by lush vegetation, but once you find your way inside you discover some of the best Cambodian seafood in Phnom Penh, given a Western twist. The seafood is sourced from the fishing town of Kampot on the southern coast (a worthy food destination in itself), and the strong flavours come through in dishes like the BBQ rock lobster, mussels served in ginger and lime, and the lunch favourite crab burger, with its slightly spicy mayo dressing. facebook.com/nesatseafood
What are your own favorite places to eat in Phnom Penh? Let me know in the comments!
The old FCC had a great location and a great view across the river too, more interestingly perhaps, they served the best liver and onions we've ever had !