Secret Sands
With the Thai island opening up, it won’t be long before Phuket’s beaches will again be packed with tourists - discover your own piece of paradise before everyone else does
Best beach for... snorkelling
Ao Sane, Naiharn
As we walked down the rough dirt steps that wind down to Ao Sane beach, a twenty-something girl emerged from the azure blue waters in front of us, wearing nothing but a tiny bikini bottom and two star fish covering her chest… Perhaps that was a dream, but it would be a fitting welcome to this isolated beach, a small sheltered bay on the south coast. At the back of the beach there's an open-air restaurant serving Thai staples like khao pad gai and pad see ew, which looks out onto waves crashing on the huge boulders that dot the sand. Just offshore – where the sand drops away sharply – snorkelers gently swim over the bright coral and tropical fish that continue to thrive here. Hugging the hillside further along the beach, hidden away among swaying palm trees, are simple beach huts. It's all so idyllic, you'd be forgiven for forgetting that just across the bay normally hundreds of tourists are fighting for space on busy Naiharn.
Best beach for... sailing
Ao Yon, Cape Panwa
Every Sunday, as the sun rises in the sky, a small fleet of dinghies set sail off Ao Yon. These are the boats of Topper Sail Phuket, many of them crewed by orphans living at a nearby children’s home founded in the wake of the 2004 Asian tsunami. Not only are they a ray of sunshine from a dark past, they are also amazing sailors, several having represented Thailand over the years. That said, the centre is open to anyone – children and adults alike – and there is no better place on Phuket to learn how to sail. Foreign coaches with years of experience are on hand to teach you the basics for dinghies, powerboats, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards. Of course, if you already know your stuff, then the equipment is available for rent. The small clubhouse serves a simple selection of Thai dishes and drinks for lunch, but if you've worked up an appetite out on the water, then head east to the next bay for dinner at chilled restaurant The Cove.
Best beach for... an adventure
Banana Rock Beach, Naithon
In the northwest of Phuket, up a long, narrow and winding road, lies a secret beach that most locals don't even know about. In fact, the only indication it's actually there is a small wooden sign nailed to a tree that reads, 'Banana Beach'. Next to the sign, a section of barbed wire has been removed from between two concrete posts, and from here a path leads to the beach. As you walk through the jungle, you'll have tantalizing glimpses of the sand and sea below you. On any given day, you'll be one of a handful of people here – some come by scooter, a few by car, and others by longtail, which can be hired to bring you here from busy Patong. If you look up from the south end of the beach you’ll see luxury resort Trisara, where rooms run upwards of US$1000 per night – though you get to enjoy the same amazing views for free. Close to where the path enters the beach is a small seafood shack, whose owner rents out loungers to visitors.
Best beach for... couples
Laem Singh, Surin
If it wasn't for the white minivans racing up the hills and getting perilously close to your back wheel, driving along the west coast of Phuket would be quite enjoyable. If island driving has you all tensed up, then it's time for a beach break. Halfway between beach towns Kamala and Surin lies the idyllic beach of Laem Singh. At least it used to be, before word got out. On busy days you can expect to find several cars and dozens of bikes in the car park, from where steep stairs lead down to the sand. Of course, with the crowds comes plenty of choice, with massage huts, loungers, and restaurants. According to old Phuket hands, Laem Singh was once known as the ‘Italian Beach’, due to the preponderance of that nationality who came here to get their golden tan.
Best beach for... families
Tri Tra, Patong
While Patong offers the most budget accommodation on the island – and admittedly much convenience in terms of bars, restaurants and shopping – its main beach leaves much to be desired. In pre-Covid times, tourists were jammed in like sardines here, meaning you could easily find yourself spending your day elbow to elbow with your fellow sun seekers. That's why you need to instead head to Tri Tra beach, which lies just north of Patong bay. If you're not in a rush, and don't mind climbing the hill, you can walk here in 30 minutes, otherwise it's just a short tuk-tuk trip or ride on your rented scooter. Accessed down a steep though drivable path, there's plenty of shade for children, as well as a large restaurant and plenty of space to just relax and chill.
Best beach for... escaping Phuket
Banana Beach, Coral Island
Sometimes, even escaping to a tropical island isn't enough. Don't worry though, as Phuket has a dozen more isles just offshore that make for a perfect day trip. Top of that list is Coral Island, known locally as Koh Hae. If you want to keep your Thailand experience authentic, it's easily reached via a longtail ride from Phuket, which costs approximately 1,500 baht for a 30 minute return trip. Small Coral Island has two main stretches of sand, the busier Long Beach, which fills up with package tourists during high season, and Banana Beach to the east, on the other side of a small peninsula. The latter is where locals in the know go, with its superior snorkelling and absence of interruptions like parasailing and banana boats. In case you get dropped off at the wrong beach, there is a short but rough path through the jungle that connects them.
What’s your favorite beach in Phuket? Let me know in the comments below.