Hey Taipei! - Part One

Visiting the island for the first time in 40 plus years, I discovered an amazing city full of great food, friendly people, and a wealth of attractions. Here's why you should go too

There are 101 reasons you should visit Taipei

We went to Taiwan on a whim. With Khmer New Year rapidly approaching, which means a mandatory holiday for all Cambodians, we looked online to see what direct, short-haul flights were available from Phnom Penh. At just over three hours away, and with ticket prices around US$500 per person, Taipei stood out over the usual city destinations of Kuala Lumpur, Saigon and Bangkok (forget Singapore, it’s just too expensive). With two airlines to choose from, we went with EVA over China Airlines (not to be confused with Air China, which is the mainland’s flag carrier), though unfortunately we didn’t fly on its Hello Kitty-adorned plane (though we did see it!).

I’m not saying Taiwan is Hello Kitty obsessed, but…

Given that Phnom Penh Airport is so small, after getting through check-in, it only takes five minutes to go through immigration and to your gate, meaning travel time is even shorter (with only carry on luggage, I’ve landed and walked through my front door within 20 minutes, though it helps I live fairly close by). After a short wait at the gate, it was time to board the waiting plane, the flight attendants smartly attired in dark green uniforms, and plenty of legroom in economy. The inflight entertainment screen was a little lackluster, but I had a new book to read (Neuromancer by William Gibson, if you’re interested), and a vegetarian Hindu meal to look forward to (travel tip: always book your meal in advance if you don’t want to choose between chicken or fish, mostly you’ll be getting a personalized meal rather than a bargain buffet spread).

Before too long, the stunning Taiwan coast emerged below, as the flight followed the coastline all the way up the west coast, a route that might have had something to do with the war-games China was holding in the Taiwan Strait, as a protest against the Taiwanese leader Tsai Ing-wen’s recent meeting with the US House Speaker Kevin McCarthy. That this was probably the only time the ongoing China-Taiwan strains came into view during our entire stay, says a lot about the Taiwanese people’s ability to shrug off the threats from across the water - in many ways, what else can they do?

Taiwanese shops don’t open until 11am, and stay open late!

Landing at the capital’s Taoyuan Airport, a driver picked us up for the 40km ride into the city center (though if you’re traveling light you can also catch a normal or express train). Our room for the week was at the Energy Inn, a wonderful little hotel located in the heart of Ximending, a bustling low-rise area at the heart of the old city. The family room was perfectly sized, with a smart little breakfast served in the basement cafe, and very efficient English-speaking staff (if you’re thinking of going to Taipei, it’s honestly highly recommended). From here, the nearest MRT station was only a few minutes walk away, and the rest of Taipei ready to be explored. So where to start?

The most obvious place is atop the Taipei 101, which was the world’s tallest building for some five years until Dubai’s Burj Khalifa outdid it in 2009. The temple-ish design of the 101 has been said to resemble stacked US-style Chinese food containers, each popping out of the one below before emerging in a spire that reaches to the tower’s full height of 508.2 meters. Going there in the morning to beat the rush, we instead ended up queuing for more than an hour (it was quiet in the afternoon when we came down, perhaps try then instead) before riding the high-speed elevators to the top.

The views from up here are impressive, even if just to see how much of Taipei is still unexpectedly low-rise - as we found out this has much to do with the island’s presence in a major earthquake zone, and explains the building’s 600 ton pendulum that serves as a mass damper. This being Taiwan, the damper has spawned cute mascot character the Damper Baby designed by Sanrio (the Japanese firm behind Hello Kitty), which you can buy in the many gift shops found up and down the tower. Having scaled one height, it was time to walk to the next, the nearby Xiangshan, or Elephant Mountain.

One of the many joys of Taipei are the plethora of parks, and easily accessible green space (Phnom Penh is a desert by comparison). Much like my hometown Hong Kong, locals here seem to love the outdoors, with the government providing well-marked hiking trails and plenty of playgrounds. Just a kilometer from the 101, Xiangshan is one of the easiest to access, with multiple routes to the top - which we eventually ended up at, despite half the group wishing we’d settled for just a lookout point. The reward for your efforts (apart from the exercise), are fantastic views of the 101, and being surrounded by nature - though the kids also enjoyed climbing the ‘Six Rocks’, iconic boulders that also serve as photo props for the many hikers that come here.

Flush with success, we proceeded to continue walking the rest of the evening - first to the nearby Lego store, then onwards to the Raohe Night Market, this remarkably walkable city making it a pleasure to stroll along the restaurant-lined streets in the perfect April weather. While Taipei is full of night markets, Raohe seems to be a particular favorite, which we can only assume is for the food - you can’t go two steps without stopping to smell a snack, and it is wise to skip dinner when coming here.

I’ve tried to remember all the incredible things we ate, but it’s impossible - the only thing you need to know is if you see a queue, join it. The food at the end will be worth it. After an amazing day, it was back to the inn for a well-deserved rest, and to prepare for the next adventure - heading out of town to the villages of Jiufen and Shifen…